Stop 6/7
Mèo Vạc, around Km185 of the Loop, is the town at the end of Mã Pí Lèng Pass. It's known for its Sunday market, the once-a-year Khâu Vai Love Market and peaceful villages on the Rocky Plateau.
Dropping down from Mã Pí Lèng Pass, the Happiness Road ends in a wide valley surrounded by limestone peaks: Mèo Vạc, around Km185 of the Ha Giang Loop. The town is small and quieter than Đồng Văn, but it has a bustling market, Hmong and Lô Lô villages that keep many traditions alive, and nearby, the famous Khâu Vai Love Market. It's also the turning point where the second half of the Loop begins, heading towards Du Già.
Mèo Vạc is the end of the Happiness Road, which runs from Hà Giang City through Quản Bạ, Yên Minh, Đồng Văn and Mã Pí Lèng. The road was built by hand between 1959 and 1965, cut through the cliffs to bring life to the most remote villages on the plateau. Reaching Mèo Vạc means you've ridden the whole of it — a milestone worth pausing for, spending a night and looking back on what you've just crossed, before turning onto the countryside roads to the south.
Getting from Mã Pí Lèng to Mèo Vạc
From the top of Mã Pí Lèng Pass down to Mèo Vạc town is about 15 km, around 30 minutes.
- The route: a long, twisting descent, with the view gradually opening onto a wide valley of houses and cornfields.
- Riding yourself: long descents easily overheat your brakes. Use a low gear and engine braking, and feather the brakes gently instead of squeezing constantly.
- Easy rider / car: an easy ride; watch for buses and trucks coming up the pass in the other direction.
- Weather: in the evening and in winter, fog can creep down from the pass into town; avoid riding the pass after dark.
Things to see in and around Mèo Vạc
- Mèo Vạc market: held on Sunday mornings, bustling with people from the villages coming down to trade produce, fabric and livestock. The buffalo, cattle and goat trading area is a very distinctive sight.
- Khâu Vai Love Market: about 20 km from town, held only once a year, on the 27th day of the 3rd lunar month, linked to a legend about an unfulfilled love. If you're there at the right time, it's a unique cultural experience — remember to book your accommodation early.
- Pả Vi cultural village: a Hmong village near town with rammed-earth houses, stone walls and community homestays.
- Mèo Vạc valley from above: on the way down from Mã Pí Lèng there are a few spots to stop and take in the town nestled in its ring of mountains.
- The last bends of the pass: a great angle back over the road you've just conquered, best at sunset.
- Corn and buckwheat in the rock hollows: a hallmark of the Rocky Plateau, especially in the October–November flower season.
Where to eat and stay
Mèo Vạc market is the ideal place to try thắng cố (horse-meat stew) cooked in huge pans, mèn mén (steamed ground corn), cháo ấu tẩu (aconite-root porridge), bánh ngô (corn cakes), gác bếp smoked meats such as sausage, buffalo and pork, and local rượu ngô (corn liquor). Eateries in town also usually serve beef dishes, hotpots and Hmong mustard greens picked from the hillside fields.
Accommodation includes guesthouses and small hotels in town and homestays in villages such as Pả Vi. Staying the night in Mèo Vạc gives you a relaxed morning before the long ride to Du Già.
Best time to go & tips
- October–November: buckwheat, clear skies, great riding weather.
- December–February: cold, with mustard flowers and the first plum blossoms.
- Late in the 3rd lunar month: the Khâu Vai Love Market.
- Market day: Sunday morning.
Tips:
- Fill up in Mèo Vạc before heading to Du Già: the next stretch is long, with areas that have few petrol stations.
- Withdraw cash if needed — this is one of the last places with easy ATM access before the Du Già countryside.
- Check your bike: the road to Du Già is narrow with some rough sections; brakes, tyres and chain need to be in good shape.
- Ask permission before photographing people at the market, especially at the Khâu Vai Love Market.
- Dress warmly for the early-morning market: the valley is high and the mist is cold.
One more idea
If you're doing the Loop in reverse, Quản Bạ will be the last leg of your journey — a flight over the valley is a truly memorable way to end the trip. See the Quản Bạ flying site.
Next stop: Du Già · Previous stop: Mã Pí Lèng Pass
